My newly graduated youngest son is visiting Thailand with friends from his alma mater, Rice University. Most of the photos he has sent document meals eaten and temples visited, but among them is this, my favorite image:
The smiling head of the
Buddha sunk among the tangled roots of a banyan tree. The place is Wat Mahathat
in Ayutthaya, former capital of Siam and a UNESCO World Heritage Site since
1991. Founded in 1350, the city was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767 and today
is known as Thailand’s Angkor Wat. It was abandoned until the 1950s.
I had seen the
banyan/Buddha image once before, in black and white, accompanying a series of
poems by the late Kenneth Fields, collectively titled “One Love,” a sort of travelogue
documenting a visit to Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. Fields was a student of
Yvor Winters at Stanford University, and co-edited with him a poetry collection,
Quest for Reality: An Anthology of Short Poems in English (1969). Fields
doesn’t mention the Buddha head explicitly:
“Sacred figures draped in
yellow
Bas-reliefs crumbling away
Wat overgrown returning to
earth”
Fields’ memories rhyme
with my own:
“Rolling through these
jungles
News footage in my head
I don’t have to spell it
out”
And this:
“I feared seeing it as a
boy
Then thought I never would
Mekong
The wake of empires
Spreading out”
Fields reanimates the
Imagist impulse:
“Magnificent ruins,
Forest and culture
In symbiotic rush”
Fields visited Cambodia in
2009, during the trial of former Khmer Rouge prison camp commander Kang Kek Iew,
known as “Comrade Duch”:
“Duch is on trial today.
Head of Tuol Sleng, S-21.
Old
Party pols are trembling
He’s not the only one”
From the beautiful landscape
and temples, Fields moves on to recent history and genocide:
“Decimated
An entire country
Many times over
Some for wearing glasses”
Fields concludes the poem:
“The world is dark
With us. Even
Electricity darkens.
Only a few—
Honored in crumbling ruins
Built by darkeners
darkened
In their turn—
Only a wild heedlessness
A spare carefulness for
those we love
Suffice”
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