My wife vows never to shop again at our neighborhood grocery, less than a mile from our house. I agree that a semi-Third World atmosphere pervades the place. Once I found a puddle of urine on the floor in produce. I watched a woman stuff a bottle of wine into her yoga pants. The customer ahead of me in the checkout line screamed when the guy packing her bag dropped a cantaloupe on the eggs she had just paid for. Twice I’ve witnessed fist fights in the aisles.
I’m certain plenty of
people in the world would marvel at our grocery shelves. So much bounty, so
much redundancy and waste. I remember as a kid seeing photos of empty shelves
in Soviet stores, with a babushkaed woman staring forlornly. Cold war
propaganda? Of course. But accurate, not staged.
When I go grocery shopping
I assume the role of anthropologist. Much of today’s world is a foreign country
to me. I see stuff my parents wouldn’t recognize as food – sushi, plantain, kale,
pico de gallo, canned menudo. The last item my father might actually
have enjoyed. Like Mr. Bloom he “ate with relish the inner organs of beasts and
fowls.”
In “Grace to Be Said at
the Supermarket” (The Blue Swallows, 1967), Howard Nemerov treats the
modern American grocery as an exercise in mathematics, divine grace and the
denial of mortality:
“This God of ours, the
Great Geometer,
Does something for us
here, where He hath put
(if you want to put it
that way) things in shape,
Compressing the little
lambs into orderly cubes,
Making the roast a decent
cylinder,
Fairing the tin ellipsoid
of a ham,
Getting the luncheon meat
anonymous
In squares and oblongs
with all the edges bevelled
Or rounded (streamlined,
maybe, for greater speed).
“Praise Him, He hath
conferred aesthetic distance
Upon our appetites, and on
the bloody
Mess of our birthright,
our unseemly need,
Imposed significant form.
Through Him the brutes
Enter the pure Euclidean
kingdom of number,
Free of their bulging and
blood-swollen lives
They come to us holy, in
cellophane
Transparencies, in the
mystical body,
That we may look
unflinchingly on death
As the greatest good, like a philosopher should.”