I’m reading another book by C.E. Montague, a collection of travel essays, The Right Place: A Book of Pleasures (Chatto & Windus, 1924). Montague gets a little rhapsodic on occasion and requires a periodic calming down, but the man survived the Great War and would die in 1928 at age sixty-one so I’m happy to make allowances. Montague begins his “Overture” by entering through the back door:
“You may wonder how it
will feel, to find you are old, and able to travel no more. Perhaps to sit out,
with your legs up, in an invalid chair on a lawn when the warm weather comes,
and to finger a book of time-tables for trains, and to think how at this hour
the day express from Paris is probably nearing Mulhouse and the evening
freshness of air that has blown across snow is coming in at the windows; soon
the train will be slowing to clank into the station at Bale just when the first
lamps are lit in the town and look gay in the twilight.”
Yes, I know the feeling,
with a different emphasis and different geography. The essay that especially interests me,
for personal reasons, is “‘Up to the Alps.” Reading it took me back to my sole
encounter with the Alps, in the summer of 1973, when I spent time living
in Chambéry (birthplace of Joseph de Maistre), in Savoy in the French Alps. There I bought a Penguin paperback of Billy Budd, Sailor
and Other Stories and dated it “7-24-73.” From the same bookstore I bought
the Signet edition of King Lear, which I’ve lost.
Both I carried in a
manila-colored filet with a ham sandwich and a bottle of vin
ordinaire while walking up le Nivolet, topped with the famous Croix
du Nivolet. I was self-consciously imitating Petrarch’s ascent of Mount
Ventoux more than six hundred years earlier and one hundred fifty miles to the
southwest. The wine and sun got the better of me and I wanted to sit in the
shade. On the side of the road was a small structure that resembled a bus stop
made of stone. I sat, cooled off and enjoyed the view. Only later did I learn
my bus stop was part of a Carolingian crypt, built, as I recall, in the ninth
century. Soon I made it to the summit.
One of the pleasures of
age is enjoying the memories we have accumulated over a lifetime. I returned to
France in 1999 but not to the Alps, and don’t expect to see them again. Montague
stokes my pleasure with his epigraph, taken from Charles Lamb’s essay “New Year’s
Eve”:
“Sun, and sky, and breeze,
and solitary walks, and summer holidays, and the greenness of fields, and the
delicious juices of meats and fishes, and society, and the cheerful glass, and
candle-light, and fire-side conversations, and innocent vanities, and jests,
and irony itself—do these things go out with life?”